Chapter 5 - Pompeii and welcome to the Coast

Rome to Naples to the City Stopped in Time

The train to Naples was very pleasant—green countryside and a high speed train and the drive to Pompeii was very quick.

Neither of us had ever been to Pompeii and were not sure what to expect. We certainly did not expect a city that stretched out for miles. Though we spent two full hours, we saw only about a quarter of it. Here is what you first see - a few streets.

Fortunately, we had a private guide who was a trained archaeologist - something we would highly recommend. While what you see is very striking, without historical context, it just seems like ruins.

The shapes and colors on the ruins can seem like abstract art.

And, of course, it wouldn't be Italy without poppies to add color.

At the center of the city is a large square. Right now, unfortunately, it is dominated by contemporary sculptures on temporary display supposedly reflecting the original art of the city - not so at all said our guide. However, they do provide a kind of visual shock.

We were able to get one pic there without them.

As we walked around the streets, we were able to go into homes, shops and rooms. Just walking by was an invitation to look inside.

Inside were amazing patterns of stonework made by the passage of time.

And a few tile floors.

The last half of the tour focused on the four most important sites. One was the display area of artifacts collected from around the city, which includes many intact pots.

There were also original wall sculptures.

And, of course, the famous preserved remains of the city dwellers, so touching.

None more so than this child.

Strangely, one of the best preserved buildings is a brothel. Pompeii was a seaport and often "entertained" traveling sailors. There is an amazing "menu" on the wall when you enter, almost like a McDonald's.

The "cubicles" where the prostitutes worked are completely preserved.

And also, somewhat shocking, is the sign on the wall on the sidewalk outside the door, telling you what kind of business is inside - look on the right side of the picture...

The best-preserved public building is the baths. 

The details of the ceiling and walls are fascinating.

Perhaps the best wall was a large private villa. This is the entrance.

It has the most beautiful preserved floors in the city.

A lovely original sculpture.

And original frescos, as well.

Of special interest were a religious shrine inside the house

and a courtyard garden between the front half of the house and the back.

We left the city viewing Mt. Vesuvius through the ruins.

As it was already almost mid-afternoon, we had lunch in Pompeii. It was delicious, but we forgot to note what it was...except for a picture!

Down the Amalfi Coast to Positano

The drive to Positano was beautiful. Steep coast line and blue water--the perfect combination. We could look back over Sorrento and see Mt. Vesuvius from the other side.

The drive was made more exciting by the speeding motorcyclists racing past us around the hills on the narrow road. They were almost sideways they were leaning so much. There were also bicyclists pedaling up the hills - how??? . 

Soon Positano and coast beyond came into view. We stopped for a pic.

Our hotel was just beautiful. The view from our room, looking down, included the hotel courtyard and the lovely town church.

Looking up over the balcony, you were reminded of just how hilly it is.

Dusk provided a chance at another lovely view in the dwindling light.

Dinner was at another one of the fine hotels in Positano, Al Maricanto, outside on the terrace overlooking Positano. The lights climbing the hills of Positano are postcard perfect.  

Dinner was an elegant treat.  We began with roasted octopus in a light yogurt sauce. This was followed by lemon risotto with fresh shrimp tartar and gnocchi with lobster.  

The main was turbot with dried seaweed dust.  

All the sauces were very light yet flavorful.  We both drank local white wines.  Lester had friulano while I had Greco il toro - light, dry et fruity.  

We now completely have this little routine about dessert—starting off saying we will pass, then take a look since all the food so far has been great, then ordering some delight.  We had pistachio creme brule with lemon sorbet—oh so good.  The perfect ending was the traditional one on the Amalfi coast - a glass of limoncello. A great start to our Coast visit.