This day we would be travelling, by car to Naples and then by train to Florence.
We had learned from our research that the food on Italian trains leaves something to be desired so we checked out places in Positano that might be able to put together something for lunch to take with us. We found a grocery deli, called, strangely, Delicatessen!. After checking it out earlier, we went in and ordered some sandwiches to go.
The 90 minute drive to Naples was delightful. We had the quintessential Italian driver, very talkative and filled with Italian lore. He is also a dedicated cook so he was giving Elaine cooking tips and recipes—use onions with beef - only use garlic with seafood and vegetables.
In addition to commenting on the scenery, as we drove, he played Pavoratti singing the famous song about Sorrento as we drove near Sorrento.
Of course, he translated the words of the sad love song in real time—a great Amalfi Coast memory. And then we stopped for one last picture.
Italian high-speed trains are great. There are some trade-offs we learned. Business class (especially in the "quiet car") is very restful. However, this car is usually at the very front of the train, which is at the very END of the platform. So you may have to trudge with your luggage past 10 or more cars to board.
Once onboard, we broke out our lunch - sundried tomatoes, artichoke and mozzarella on homemade bread—delicious, but so big neither of us could finish.
But the best was suddenly seeing the Duomo tower looming behind buildings as we neared the hotel.
Once onboard, we broke out our lunch - sundried tomatoes, artichoke and mozzarella on homemade bread—delicious, but so big neither of us could finish.
Settling In to Florence and a Great Meal
Our hotel, although next to the Duomo in the older part of town, is very modern - Italian contemporary - and just beautiful. They have great service style offering Prosecco on arrival. Here is our cool bathroom.
Our hotel, although next to the Duomo in the older part of town, is very modern - Italian contemporary - and just beautiful. They have great service style offering Prosecco on arrival. Here is our cool bathroom.
So comes another multi-week travel planning tip - hotel laundry rates are out of sight so we always try to find a laundromat near our hotel at the time of the trip when we are just about to run out of clean clothes. On this trip, this was the perfect day and our intro to Florence.
Laundry in Italy is a bit different....we loaded the wash and then went to get a gelato! While the wash was in, we quickly wandered the
nearby streets, filled to overflowing with touristy leather shops and stands, almost as far as the eye could see - our first real impression of the city - which was to be erased within hours.
Our dinner reservation was 20 minutes away on the other side of the river. That gave us a chance to walk along the river and see the famous bridges at twilight.
Dinner on Tuesday
night was at a small chef owned restaurant—iO Osteria Personale—slightly
nouvelle Italian. All the dishes had a very light touch. There was an amusing drawing on the wall where the chef had "storyboarded" a dish!
We began with an amuse bouchée
of carrot purée with raw asparagus shavings with sesame and then a starter of
artichoke with smoked potatoes and taglioni cheese.
For pasta we had spaghetti with mussels.
Our main was lamb rib chops w/ green beans.
As we knew there was an outstanding gelato stand nearby...no desert here!
The walk back to the hotel quickly made us forget the tacky leather market of the afternoon. It was an eyecandy joy; from the squares...
to the bridges from afar...
or nearby.
But the best was suddenly seeing the Duomo tower looming behind buildings as we neared the hotel.
Crowned by stepping into the Duomo square by night.
Our appetite was completely whetted for the next day's walking tour of the city.
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